Sleep makes all the difference in one’s outlook. We spend the day with Lindblad prepping for the expedition and doing limited city touring. Documents are checked and rechecked. Luggage tagged, bagged, and left for pickup this evening, not to reappear until we arrive at our ship’s cabin. (Stress remains over baggage weight overage.)
The morning we take a guided neighborhood walking trip. We cross over the river via the Puente de La Mujer, Women’s Bridge, a modern pedestrian structure. In front of us is the Plaza De Mayo, a celebrated square of Argentinian democracy. Both sides of the river share examples of old brick buildings remnants of the former port warehouses, offices, and grain towers. Restoration and redesign of the older architecture has been infused and blended with the older structures. The visual character of outdoor dining, music, wide pedestrian walkways add to the lively atmosphere. This neighborhood represents a more affluent populous since the country as a whole is approximately 40% under the poverty level.
Following lunch, we join a Lindblad sponsored tour of two prominent sites in the city. Our first destination in the San Telmo section of the city known as El Zanjon de Granados, an important city archeological site including its landmark underground tunnels and the above-ground buildings. The site, approximately 500 years old, attracted the attention of Jorge Eckstein in 1970s who sought to dig up, renovate and restore the remaining standing structures for commercial use. However over time, recognizing the value and history of the underground tunnels and buried elements of life for hundreds of years, led him to focus his efforts to the conservatorship of the project. Today having restored the cisterns, well, arched walls and the 1830 mansion as a museum, it serves as a fine example of the ways and means of how Argentinians lived through these years.
We cross the Mayo Avenue connecting the Rosado House, presidential house (Casa Rosado) with the Congress building while riding along the celebrated July 19th Avenue representing Argentina’s independence from Spain – 1816. The Avenue professes to be the widest highway in the world. It is along this route the celebrated Oblelisk stands and is used for celebratory events of the country.
Also, we cruise to Recoleta Square and spend a short hour in the cemetery of the same name. It is here where the history of BA and Argentina come together through those who represent their country in military, politics, culture and wealth. Eva (Evita) Perón resides in this massive collection of crypts.
Both of our guides provided insights into the fluctuating status of Argentina’s economy. The country has undergone tremendous inflation for over several years. Since its latest election of Javier Milei (right libertarian politician), its currency has crashed even further. There is a sense of wait-and-see as to how this economic crisis will be addressed. In neighborhoods visited, the financial situation of the populous provided limited visibility. Police and security were concentrated in tourist areas. There was limited begging observed on the river walks. In our touring, we observed only two homeless people sleeping on the streets. Only time will reveal how this chapter in the Argentina history will be resolved.
Providing the last minute requirements for our flight and transfer to the Endurance ship, Lindblad sponsored a cocktail party in the evening. From there, we fly up to the 32nd floor of the Alvear Icon hotel to catch a 360 degree view of the city sunset and a sushi dinner. Bed is early again – wake call even earlier.
Rizbee On The Road 